Almost every year (usually on Wednesday and Thursday of the third week in October), a unique two-day airshow takes place in an alpine environment high above Axalp village near Brienz, Switzerland. It's called "Fliegerschiessen Axalp" or Swiss Air Force displays Axalp-Ebenfluh. The Swiss Air Force pilots fly with McDonnell Douglas F/A-18 Hornets & Northrop F-5E Tiger jets (the latter now being replaced by Lockheed Martin F-35A), Pilatus PC-7 and Pilatus PC-21 training aircraft and Eurocopter AS532UL Cougar helicopters.

Axalp site map
Fig.1 - Location of Brienz and Axalp village in central Switzerland. © 2023 swisstopo.

The F/A-18 jets fire at several mountain targets with their board cannons, perform aircraft interception, and helicopters are used for rescue operations, for firefighting and for rappelling Grenadiers. The exact date of the two-day event is published on several aviation sites and whether the event takes place depends on the weather conditions and on other unforeseen events. The impressive airshow is set for 2:00 pm to 3:30 pm on both days and between 11:00 am and 2.00 pm, countless Cougar helicopters fly the press and VIP's to platform 1. The airshow program is the same on both days. In the mornings of the two-day airshow and in the days before, training might take place (usually from 8:30 am to 11:00 am and from 2:00-3:30 pm). While not much had been published about this event in the pre internet days, people from all over the world still seemed to find their way up to Axalp. In recent years, the Fliegerschiessen Axalp has grown in popularity and the number of visitors had to be regulated (traffic ban between Brienz and Axalp during the two-day event, internet ticket sale for the chairlift).

Axalp site
Fig.2 - Map showing the way from Brienz to Axalp village and to the airshow site. Platforms 1, 2 and 3 are marked. The straight blue line is the chair lift. Red lines are hiking routes. © 2023 demo.axalp@vtg.admin.ch.

If you want to visit this awe-inspiring event, here are some details. There are regular train connections between Zürich airport or Zürich city and Brienz. If you arrive by car, there is a Park & Ride parking outside of Brienz (on the road from Brienz to Axalp, close to Lake Brienz). Shuttle buses take you from Brienz train station or from the Park & Ride parking up to Axalp village at 1,500 m above sea level on the days of the event (for more details, contact the travel agency "Flück Reisen AG", +41339521545, info@flueck-reisen.ch, situated in Brienz, leaving early in the morning and throughout the day). Better yet, stay either in a hotel in beautiful Brienz (near Lake Brienz) or directly in the Axalp mountain village (in one of the vacation apartments or the hotel). Unfortunately, there are not many places to stay in Axalp. Private cars can't use the road from Brienz to Axalp during the two-day event as stated above, but on the days before the event, you usually can drive to Axalp to get to your vacation apartment. In Axalp village, take the Windegg chairlift. It takes you from 1,546 m to 1,926 m above sea level in about 15 minutes. Tickets for the chairlift can bee purchased online at Ticketino.com. Now comes the tough part: You have to walk up the mountain (there will be thousands of people doing the same, so you can't get lost) for another one or two hours (depending on your physical condition).

The hike
Fig.3 - The hike in the morning (2019).

This is not a walk in the park - make sure you have warm clothes and trekking shoes with you. You don't have to climb but it's a pretty steep hike (320 vertical meters) and if snow lies on the ground it can be dangerous (especially the descent). Take an extra shirt, something to sit on (a light fitness mat), sun protection, plenty of water and food with you, but keep your bag as light as possible (especially if you take your camera & heavy tele lenses with you). There are three observing platforms located 2,200 m above sea level, platform 1 (Axalp-Ebenfluh), 2 (Tschingel) & 3. Each platform is good for taking photos, but I favor platform 1 (at the top) because it's closest to the mountain targets. Unfortunately if you come from Brienz by bus you might miss the morning training (depending on your departure time in Brienz). But even if you miss the morning training, it's still worth the trip. You will see a lot during the show in the afternoon. The path from Windegg to the top (platform 1, 2 or 3) is well marked.

If you are a dedicated photographer you will stay in a vacation apartment or a hotel in Axalp village and leave your accommodation at 5:45 am (yes, at the latest). You will get in line at the Windegg chairlift in complete darkness. The chairlift will take you up whenever the lift people feel ready (between 6:00 am and 7:00 am). You can see the stars on this 15-minute ride if the weather is kind to you and the chairs might be covered with ice. If you leave this early (a lot of people do), you will need extra winter clothes (wear multiple layers of clothes!), gloves, a ski cap and a headlamp. Some use trekking poles to spare their knees (I do, especially for the descent). Don't climb too fast or you will get punished by your lungs.

View from Lake Brienz
Fig.4 - Axalp and mountain range for Air Force training as seen from Brienz. © 2023 utopia-photography.ch.

What else? The event was cancelled several times in the past - sometimes due to bad weather, sometimes for less obvious reasons. The pilots practice during the whole week and usually even in the week before the event whenever the weather is ok. If you don't want to take the chairlift, you have to walk an extra 350 vertical meters up from Axalp village to Windegg (taking you at least another hour) and then up to the platforms. The shows and trainings are free of charge. But the chairlift costs approx. 15 Swiss Francs (two way ticket) and the bus rides cost a fortune. If you take the bus from Brienz to Axalp in the morning, the bus will take you back to Brienz. Keep in mind it will take a long time to get back to Brienz. Thousands of people try to get home.

View from Lake Brienz
Fig.5 - On platform 1 (2022) © 2023 utopia-photography.ch.